After enjoying the last mouthful of a stunning starter of scallops and pork belly, I headed to the lavatory in 86 already feeling rather delighted with life. And then, like a manna from heaven, David Attenborough came into my world, his unmistakable tones wafting into the cubicle through a speaker. It was the most soothing pee I've ever had and was infinitely more pleasant than the nasty elevator music that normally accompanies nature's call in smart restuarants.
It was a simple, yet genius touch from a venue that simply oozes class, and which has a substance to its food that matches the almost outrageously ornate style of its decor.
Opened in 2010, 86 quickly gained favour among west London's high-rollers for its sumptuous cocktails, getting the Royal thumbs-up from the Middleton sisters, no less. Food, served on the second of three floors within a Georgian townhouse, originally seemed to take a back seat, but with chef Simon Levy joining from Koffman's, it has gone up a gear, with classical French cooking constructed with a contemporary overtone.
We were led up the winding staircase to our table, which gave a bird's-eye view of the mixologists strutting their stuff downstairs. The restaurant is dimly lit but glows warmly with the dark gold-hued furnishings and rails and exposed, oversized copper light bulbs. Narcissists can get their fill by looking up at the myriad of mirrors on the ceiling, while the gilded walls are adorned with classic portraits, made a little crazy with the super-imposition of various animal heads.
The restaurant, private dining room, almost has the feel of a private members' club, but the happy jazz music, buzz of conversation from downstairs and friendly staff ensure stuffiness is far from the agenda. I took a friend but could easily have imagined a wooing a woman or putting the world to rights with the old man.
After a venison pasty amuse-bouche came the scallop starter, which was finished with a decoration of squid ink and butternut squash puree. It was a painting on a plate, and tasted better. The soft creamy and pure scallops got a rustic kick from the soupcon of pork belly, and the duo were pleasantly sweetened with the puree and ink. Friend said the mac and cheese with snails, bacon and garlic croutons, served in a ramekin on an 86-branded wooden board, was earthy, rich, filling and fantastic.
We were led up the winding staircase to our table, which gave a bird's-eye view of the mixologists strutting their stuff downstairs. The restaurant is dimly lit but glows warmly with the dark gold-hued furnishings and rails and exposed, oversized copper light bulbs. Narcissists can get their fill by looking up at the myriad of mirrors on the ceiling, while the gilded walls are adorned with classic portraits, made a little crazy with the super-imposition of various animal heads.
The restaurant, below the third floor private dining room, almost has the feel of a private members' club, but the happy jazz music, buzz of conversation from downstairs and friendly staff ensure stuffiness is far from the agenda. I took a friend but could easily have imagined a wooing a woman or putting the world to rights with the old man.
沒有留言:
張貼留言